Editorial
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On Style
You can’t define surf style—right? One surfer’s idea of equipoise is another’s vision of rank, look-at-me-being-casual peacocking. But maybe our…
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Melt That Clock
The flat spell has been broken—thankfully, mercifully. And over a weekend, nonetheless. How rare is it that good surf lines…
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What’s A Cornishman To Do?
Wherever in the World There Is a Hole in the Ground, You’ll Find a Cornishman at the Bottom of It…
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Black Sheep DNA
Shane Beschen beckons me up the driveway toward his home, past blooming tropical plants fecund with color. Trade winds tussle…
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Florsheims in the Sand
A Cautionary Tale When John Severson hired me as associate editor of Surfer magazine in the spring of 1968, he…
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Gin Joint
Just Say Go For how much attention riding massive surf gets, the big-wave community is actually a pretty small group…
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Outlining the Experience
It was the mid 1990s, cold and nearly dark as I waited in the parking lot for my friend with…
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Fortune Favors the Bold
Introduction An aetiological tale is similar to a myth in that it tries, within the framework of a given culture,…
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From That First Wave
“Growing up,” says DJ Javier, “I didn’t think I deserved to be in the ocean. The way I saw it,…
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The Baltic Heart
“I think I’ve fucking had it, man. I think I’m done.” Freddie Meadows had spent a month and a half…
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Not Standing Up, But Not Lying Down
The small coastal hamlet of Gracetown is theater-like in its setting. Each house on the hill is oriented physically and…
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Irreversible Bikini
Surfing’s first documented wardrobe malfunction may be attributed to an unlikely candidate: the world’s best-selling novelist, Agatha Christie. The English…