Editorial
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The Rake
One night in the early fall of 1968, the then-reigning French surfing champion, Jean-Marie Lartigau, not quite out of his…
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Evolutionary Stages of the Ectomorph
i. Animation The visual languages of color, light, composition, and all the other expressions of graphic media were first articulated…
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North Swell
Pulled Into Focus My mother is from Sweden, and when I was 12, we lived in Stockholm briefly. I have…
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Going Right
The Racetrack We follow the storm up from Cape Town, through the bends of Sir Lowry’s Pass, and onto South…
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Running Under Load
“Built for these waters“ goes the company tagline for Jeff Hull Custom Boats in Ventura, California. “These waters” means the…
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I’m Not Here
There are some curious characters in 1960s surfing culture, which, it seems, often attracted the fringe dwellers of society. Professional…
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A Terror From the Deep
It should come as no surprise that the worst movie ever made was a Hollywood surf film. In the early…
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Showdown at Sunset Cliffs
One summer, Jackie Baxter, Skip Frye, and I were shooting the shit while standing at the edge of the dirt…
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Toots
Shot on the south shore of Oahu, Toots is a short film that tracks the day-to-day workings and cruisings of…
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The Archivist: Paint Drip
Proudly lined up alongside TSJ’s other topical silos, surf art must seem a curiosity, maybe even affectational. At least to…
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Meet the Maker
Water tickles my ankles. Wind hammers against the windows. Bang. Bang. Bang. A break for breath before the hammer starts…
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Full Nurture
When was the last time Kelly Slater dropped by your house to enjoy a cup of tea and a chat…