Editorial
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Real Recognizes Real
In 1983, I was on an early boat trip in Indonesia with Walter and Flippy Hoffman, Pua Rochlen, Dick Beachum,…
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The Archivist: This Thing of Ours
Since TSJ’s launch some three decades ago, our mode has been to reflect the underpinnings of the surfing life. Style…
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In Red Texas Dusk
They didn’t film The Last Picture Show in Fort Stockton, but they damn sure could have. One stoplight. One hotel,…
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Still Rolling
During the early 1990s, there was a modern-day version of the O.K. Corral in West Los Angeles. Although the Earps…
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Pulling Guard
During the 2014 Pipe Masters, a scene was repeated prior to each of Gabriel Medina’s heats that became emblematic. Peak…
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Time Out of Mind
Surf photographer Daniela Caram describes herself as pata de perro. The literal English—“foot of the dog”—does the phrase no favors.…
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Attention: Chiens Bizarres
I moved to Bidart, a small commune in the Côte des Basques, almost a decade ago to live and surf…
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The Captain
“Hey, Larmont! Where are you?” It’s winter on the North Shore in 1973, and Eddie Aikau is standing on the…
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Garrima Means Respect
Lungi Slabb doesn’t just ride the barrel. He lives in it. When a wave face bends or a lip chucks…
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Warning Shots
I’ll never forget the random message I received from Derek Hynd almost two decades ago regarding a specific area I’d…
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Butch Wax
As the old saying goes, “Time and tide wait for no man.” Surf cartoonist Butch Cornelius is no exception. Cornelius’…
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The Hesitant Professional
John Hook stood in line at the Wahiawa Satellite City Hall for his fourth driver’s license in a decade. His…