Portfolio: Naki

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Once More

"Always another wave beginning to ride more than the hours of a late surfer's life"

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Joyce Hoffman established the image of the archetypal pro surfer. Fiercely competitive and highly photogenic, she won four U.S. Championships in the 1960s and 70s, was the first woman to ride Pipe, and became a mainstream media darling. Then she walked away from surfing and really went for a ride… More than three decades later, we caught up with her at Tar Farm Stables, the horse ranch she now manages in Southern California, to talk gender politics in surfing, the ethos of professional and amateur athletics, and how she rediscovered the joys of simply riding waves later in life.

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Child of the Bomb

Screenwriter and director John Milius’ Cold War–era films captivated and confounded audiences, infuriated critics, and were defined by his brilliant dialogue, his violent worldview, and his fascination with loners, lost worlds, and long pointbreaks.

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Creeping Backwash

"Luckily Pat negotiated it perfectly and was able to pull out of the barrel on this one before the wave flared up on him."

Portfolio: Naki

More episodes

Once More

Teenage Wasteland

Sui Generis

Child of the Bomb

Creeping Backwash