Episode 0
"Always another wave beginning to ride more than the hours of a late surfer's life"
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Ep. 0
"Some of photographer Greg MacGillivray's gems tell the tales of his travels around France, Chile, Hawaii, Central America, and California, documenting the surfing and lifestyle of the '60s."
You will find Pohnpei in the Federated States of Micronesia, one of three Senyavin Islands within the Caroline Island chain. It can fire for weeks on end and was first surfed by only a handful from the '60s into the '90s. Fast forward to the late '90s and the secret's unleased with the first surf camp opening in 2004—Pohnpei is no longer a secret.
The up-and-coming, contest-entering, 16 year old version of Joel Tudor is profiled by Scott Hulet in this candid interview with the hyper-talented kid from Cardiff.
Breaking everything with Fritz Chesnut.
Exploring the raw-boned, disorderly, and idiosyncratic moments as a counterweight to the polished.