Editorial
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The Collected Cooper
Bob Cooper was an eccentric among California surfers in the 1950s, an oddball tribe itself back then. He was a…
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Chasing The Wind
The Gauchos del Mar embrace the now and battle the elements in the Falkland Islands.
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The Eye of the Hunter
Derek Dunfee’s evolution from big-wave surfer to big-wave photographer. From TSJ 29.3.
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White Caps Of The Mind
Surfboard shaper Donald Brink wonders if “magic” equals “frequency.”
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A Wave Trying to Find the Ocean
What I recall most vividly was my wife gripping my hand so tightly that I thought my fingers would break.…
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The Unbreakable Icon
Moments before my interview with 1999 world champion Mark Occhilupo, he smashed his face on the reef at Backdoor. Broken…
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A Quiet Power
It’s double overhead in the middle of nowhere, two hours north of Kona. Not a sip of wind. Sarah Lee…
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Through the Porthole
The 900-foot container ship is nearing the end of the Pirate Corridor as it cruises through the Gulf of Aden,…
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Dirt, Scratches, Fingerprints, & Grain
The first inkling I had that there was this surfing thing, and that it just might be really fun, was…
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By Hand
It was the naiveté of youth that first led them to the water’s edge in Ketchikan, Alaska, where twin brothers…
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White Caps of the Mind
The lights in Donald Brink’s shaping room recently burned out, meaning time for replacement and assessment. “Each set of 4100…
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The Surf Gods of Idaho
It’s thursday. A clock nailed to a tree reads 9 p.m. The August sun lingers on the horizon. Five surfers…