Editorial
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This Delicacy Before Us
I don’t want to eat rat, but we are going to eat rat. Kepa Acero and I have just arrived…
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Dropping In With Mickey Muñoz
Each time I visit Mickey and Peggy Muñoz’s Capo Beach abode, I once again fall under the spell that exists…
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Lines of Connection
In his debut graphic novel, titled In Waves, surfer and illustrator AJ Dungo explores the beauty and complexity of his…
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Soundings: Sanders
“The best shapers in the world are sanders.” I can’t recall who said that. Tom Eberly, maybe. It definitely wasn’t…
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Two Hands Clapping
I’ve wanted to surf this place for years. All I knew about it was that the landscape is unlike anything…
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Rain Dogs
Day One11:54 a.m. Nothing smells quite like the Pacific Northwest in the fall. Leaves are changing color and will soon…
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The Warmest Sands of Wishing
Where is the sea high and the winds softAnd moist and warm, sometimes stainedWith sun, with peace so wild for…
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Getting Up and Catching Spots
Nickname origin stories are typically boring. Most often earned during adolescence, they’re usually granted by close friends or are the…
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La Nostalgie de la Boue
The French have a phrase for yearning after squalor: La nostalgie de la boue. Literally, it means a nostalgia for…
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Farming for Fuel
Growing up as neighbors in Hana, Hawaii, Monyca and Ola Eleogram spent their formative years like most Maui kids, roaming…
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Vantage Point
The longer you surf, the more ingrained it becomes in your basic human nature. At 79 years old, I have…
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A Moment of Reflection 2020
Please join us in remembering the surfers we lost in 2020.