Editorial
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On Style
Extreme tight-stanced surfing flies in the face of athletics. It speaks to dance, ritual, death in the afternoon. A squared-up…
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Young Blood
Surfing has always been a youth-centric activity, rife with images and narratives hinting at immortality. It was the first “forever…
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Between Takes
Years before I met filmmaker Stephen Gaghan, I saw Traffic, his multi-narrative film about the illegal drug trade directed by…
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Portfolio: Group Show
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Among Piers
Things were edging into late fall when the pier suddenly revealed its secret to me, a vision I keep chasing,…
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The Station Hand
The board was a bright-green Gunther Rohn, badly creased through its middle. No longer of any use to its owner,…
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Virtuoso
The call comes in a little after ten o’clock on a quiet night. It catches the Uber driver napping, pulled…
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The Intentional Line
When Geoff McFetridge was a student at CalArts in the 1990s, he passed through a set of double doors to…
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Song of the Sinosaurus
Spring 2010. Jim “Pilk” Pilkenton, a phone company repairman who moonlighted as a Huntington Beach surf instructor, Rodney Dangerfield impersonator,…
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Lonely in the Pacific
“Let thy foot be seldom in thy neighbor’s house, lest he be weary of thee and hate thee.” —Proverbs 25:17…
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Sessions Measured in Millimeters
“Getting in at Parking Lot. Be home soon.” Sending that text to my wife is crucial to ensure my future…
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Bull Droppings
I’m not sure where my passport is. I’ve lost my kids’ birth certificates many times. I’m clueless where either of…