Editorial
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The Big Man
Of course I knew who Rusty was. Everybody did. He was the formidable goofyfoot from La Jolla Shores who looked…
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Solving For X
December 2021 Just minutes from touching down at our destination, a mysterious patch of land in the Bering Sea known…
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The Gold Brickers
“What does a ski bum do in summer? LIFE Photographer Loomis Dean, who last winter [1949] documented the gold-bricking existence…
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Whole Food and Terpenes
The sun hadn’t yet climbed over the verdant hills of the Rancho Corral de Tierra preserve when Robert Glover pulled…
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“Let It Breathe, Love…”
While it seems most mainstream profes- sional-sports photographers shoot their subject with the detachment of an analyst, Ryan Miller is…
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Turaco in the Drylands
He was camped next to us at a remote Mexican pointbreak. One afternoon, I noticed his legs sticking out from…
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A Handmade’s Tale
As generations of wave riders continue passing through time and space, the shaping of surfboards is becoming increasingly automated, thus…
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Tom Curren
Santa Barbara-native Tom Curren championed athleticism in surfing with his emergence on the ASP World Tour in 1983. Highly regarded…
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Mason Ho
Apple | Spotify | Stitcher For Mason Ho, surfing has been a source of happiness since before he can remember.…
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Dibi Fletcher
Dibi Fletcher, the self-described progenitor of a “gene pool of cool,” has mastered living life to the fullest. An artist,…
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Nathan Fletcher
From a family of world-renowned surfers, Nathan Fletcher was fated to push limits. His fire for big waves and airs…
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Paul Theroux
Paul Theroux is an established travel writer and novelist residing on the North Shore of Oahu. Author of numerous acclaimed…