Editorial
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Proof of Life
It’s already hot at 8 a.m. in Mogadishu when I open the heavy, bulletproof door to the armored Land Cruiser…
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Whomping for Gold
For decades, bodysurfing contests have felt more like arcane rituals than high-stakes competitions. Most are local affairs—equal parts family reunion,…
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The Road Warriors
One thing about being a surfer who lived in Huntington Beach in the early 1960s was that new swells often…
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Los Costeños de Aca
Surfing was introduced to the Acapulco region in the late 1950s. Oral history from the area notes that Hollywood actors,…
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The Big Man: Rusty Preisendorfer
In TSJ 31.4’s “The Big Man,” author and photographer John Durant tracks Rusty Preisendorfer’s half century of surfboard shaping. From…
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The High Line: July 2022
This summer has been intense. I’m preparing new sculptures and paintings for a show opening on September 10 at Leslie…
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On Style
Among a certain ilk, Robert Kelly Slater is so inseparable from his legacy as a competitive nonpareil that they can’t…
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Solid Waste
It was deep into winter the first time it stirred, at a secret spot buried inside the national park. A…
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The Dreamer
The first time I met Wayne Lynch, we’d each been driving around all morning looking for waves in northern New…
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Lightness of Manner
Spring, and the air is filled with promise. The ferry docks to an island bathed in twilight, a precursor to…
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The First Cut Is the Deepest
Surfers d’un certain âge may recall falling under the spell of what seemed like Aussie magic in the late 70s…
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Sucker Free on the Ruta Del Sol
Two kinds of people travel for beachbreak: big-wave surfers and the crowd-averse. If you’re not the air-vest and double-leash-plug sort…