Episode 0
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Ep. 0
Highlights are the 10 minute wave through Bordeaux on the Dordogue River. Reviews of "Board Talk" by Eyvinn Hansen Schoenberg, "Visions of a Breaking Wave" by Morrison Media. Look at Jack Hokensen's surf shop and Mike Diffenderfer at Cote des Basques.
Acoustic ecologist and bodysurfer Gordon Hempton on the “presence of silence” and the “laundering” powers of the Pacific.
“Surfing was a rebellious sport but I was like the ultimate rebel.”
Ep. 61
On making music, living in Biarritz, and what it’s like to come from a family of surfing greats.
Ep. 17
On winning a world title at 45, Pipeline, his greatest mentors, the importance of style, and turning pro at the age of fourteen.