Undercurrents

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Branding the Leper

13 years before the Champions' Tour posed a threat to the ASP World Tour (2009), Fred Pawle discusses an eerily similar sequence of events.

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Russell Hoover Portfolio

Porter Turnbull is on his way into the Southern Ocean, attempting to realize a lifelong dream of finding rideable surf in Antarctica. The vessel he is aboard is on an exploratory wildlife expedition. His surfboard is strategically masked as photography equipment, in case the sight of it would end his exploration before it began. The captain eventually gets wind of what Porter is planning. Rather than shatter Porter's dream, the captain supports it, and he and the crew volunteer to help provide access to potential surf zones along the voyage. After poring over charts and logs from previous trips, Porter searches out, and finds what he was looking for.

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Going Lala

Performance surfing is older than you think.

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God And Ben

Start surfing late: say, in your twenties. Throw s-turns on 40-pound tankers. Teach yourself to shape. Invent the swallowtail. Invent the Sting. Build prototypes for Buttons and Bertlemann. Shape, carve, and coach relentlessly for 50 years. Boom! Overnight success. Ben Aipa—a man’s man to be sure—has been a powerful, albeit humble, presence in Hawaiian surfing since the days of the Makaha International Championships. Under sung in an almost criminal way for decades, it is our pleasure to drop this 8,000-word bomb.

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Not Factory