Episode 0
Contemporary king of POV, Brian Conley, skirts a smooth glassy wall in Northern Baja and Jeremiah Klein freezes the moment.
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Ep. 0
After 15 years of committed Indo barrel hunting, the author faces an age-old dilemma.
"A mile of clean sand. I will write my name here, and the trouble that is in my heart. I will write the date and place of my birth, What I was to be, and what I am…." -Edna St.Vincent Millay
An excerpt from the novel <em> Under the Wave At Waimea.</em>
Bodysurfing’s place of refuge, and the Oahu locals bent on preserving it.
You will find Pohnpei in the Federated States of Micronesia, one of three Senyavin Islands within the Caroline Island chain. It can fire for weeks on end and was first surfed by only a handful from the '60s into the '90s. Fast forward to the late '90s and the secret's unleased with the first surf camp opening in 2004—Pohnpei is no longer a secret.