Episode 0
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Paul Gross’ article on the long-to-shortboard changeover from the late 1960’s into the early-‘70’s. Gross argues that the Hawaiian low-railed mini-gun adaptations, not the Australian wide-backed V-bottoms, were the more functional and influential innovations of this period.
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Ep. 0
Surfboards on Fire
When the notorious riot broke out at the 1986 OP Pro Surfing Championships, a renowned British fine-art photographer happened to be on hand with a single roll of film. He shot it. Then, he lost it for a quarter century. These are Nick Waplington’s Surf Riot images, along with some thoughts about what they might mean.
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Ep. 70
Derek Hynd
On going finless, modern performance surfing, and sharks.
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Ep. 69
Cheyne Horan
On performance surfing, going against the grain, and the world tour in the 1980s.
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Ep. 68
Kelia Moniz
On growing up at Waikiki, competition, traveling the world, and family.