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Moana Jones Wong on being crippling shy while excelling at the world’s most examined wave, lineup politics, her DIY approach, and growing up on the North Shore.
A tribute to the wave riders we lost this year.
Ep. 28
On his art career, resisting the Gauguin fantasy, despoiled paradise, his manifesto, misanthropy, his ALS diagnosis, and finding beauty in the everyday.
Mark Anders takes an in depth look at Donavon Frankenreiter's life from growing up in Inland Mission Viejo to becoming one of the first sponsored "free surfers" and gaining rock star status. Donovan's natural ability and spontaneous approach to surfing has set him apart from the rest, often bridging three generations of surfing style into one wave.
It’s been nearly a decade since Garrett McNamara and company attempted the most audacious project in surfdom. Writer Kimball Taylor was on site, and still can’t shake how heavy it was.