Episode 0
The Short Happy Life of Lighthouse Jetty
Denny Aaberg recounts the lifecycle of his favorite home break during his teenaged years: “Nobody knows for sure when the transformation was complete, but one day in ’59, probably at low tide, a glassy northwest windswell rolled in, found the jetty’s sculpted sand bottom, and peeled off through the virgin cove in a proud sand-grabbing barrel.”
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Ep. 0
Roe Ethridge Thinks He’s Center Square
The photographer’s acerbic wit, surfer’s eye, and wry sense of humor melt together to create images that span nearly every aspect of the medium.
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Surfing and the Pleasure Principle
Garth Murphy moves to Hawaii at age 5 with his father who was a fisheries biologist. At the time in the 1940s, Hawaiian culture was strong. Hawaiian songs, hula dancing, local history culture and lore was taught in the schools. Murphy moved to La Jolla in 1959. He is initiated into the Windansea crew through their mat surfing ability. His first board was made by Pat Curren and Al Nelson in 1960. He reflects on surfing as it accumulates ancient past times and survival skills involved.
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The Russian Start
Bali: the incubator for the Russian surf scene
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Portrait of the Surfer as a Young Man
Full speed, no brakes (except for a few snapped bones and a broken heart) with the conflicted old soul of Harry Bryant.
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Aesthetics: Barry McGee
An artist’s collection of reference materials, cosmic debris, and original physical graffiti.
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The Surfer’s Journal
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