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We only spend a tiny fraction of our lives actually riding waves. The rest is spent waiting—and obsessing.

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No fins, no swimming, pushing off directly into the tube in the shorebreak: try whomping to get your fill of wave time. Review of Taylor Steele's DVD "Innersection"; Serge Dedina's second book "Wild Sea"; Dave Kalama riffs on what it takes to really be prepared for those 20 footers; Kelly Slater's response to winning the 10th ASP World Title, Curtain Call in South Oz, Aussie photographers and their monikers. Surfing Around: Excerpts from Dr. David Stern's "Notes for a book on surfing, 1963"; Passings: Phillip "Flippy" Hoffman, Peter Van Dyke, and John Montgomery Lind; Off-The Lips with Nathan Fletcher and Jason Murray. Liner Notes the back story on the creation of the following features in this issue: "Chasing Down the Genius" by Paul Holmes, a profile of master craftsman Jim Phillips; "Odds & Ends" an article compiled by ex-Surfer editor Brad Barrett on 1960s San Diego surfing.

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At home with Harry Gesner, world-renowned architect, waterman, inventor, explorer, archeologist, and the last of the original Malibu soul surfers.

Ep. 51
On joining Metallica, falling in love with the bass guitar, his first big break, family, songwriting and composition, and the connection between surfing and music.

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A gallery of classicist, Leitz-captured photos by John John Florence.
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The Surfer’s Journal
© 2025