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The Land Of The Nauset
Cape Cod is freighted with dreams, aspirations and history. A charismatic bit of geography, the hook-shaped peninsula is lauded by artists for its resonant “Cape light.” Comprising a multitude of townships, demographics, and swell exposures, it’s Massachusetts’ most complex wave field. Of course, there is a diehard surf populace willing to hang through the bitter cold of winter and the various indignities of tourist season to get their moments. This is the inside view.
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Branding the Leper
13 years before the Champions' Tour posed a threat to the ASP World Tour (2009), Fred Pawle discusses an eerily similar sequence of events.
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The Transformation of Tom Stone
Tom Pohaku Stone stared at a Hawaiian pro surfing career at an early age. Running into trouble time after time helped him separate from his ego and find the traditional Hawaiian culture that founded all things surfing. Including the study of it as well as it's traditional practices like papa nalu (boards) and papa holua (wooden sleds that ridden down hillsides). Ultimately this saved his life.
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The Old Man on the Mountain: This is a Story of a Brat
This is a story within a story. How a young brash Southern Californian surfer, Buzzy Trent, from the Malibu in-group of the late 50’s goes to Hawaii and through osmosis attains and exudes the true Hawaiian spirit. His story of his protection by old man on the mountain mirrors his own maturing in the land of aloha.
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Aesthetics: Barry McGee
An artist’s collection of reference materials, cosmic debris, and original physical graffiti.
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No Man’s Land
Into the predation cycle with white sharks and orcas at Gansbaai.
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The Surfer’s Journal
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