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The other Indonesia

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“Being a pro surfer is about your personal development. It’s not about your surfing.”

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Brant Page talks with Tom Morey about his hobby of surfing small waves… with his fingers. He shapes and designs all varieties of miniature surfboards, riding them in conditions ranging from river waves to waterfall faces.

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While Sam George was at Makaha for Buffalo's Big Board Classic, he met a family on the beach who he initially assumed were tourists. They turned out to be the family who owned the house on the point known to him as "The Rich People's House". After their conversation on the beach, he was invited to the Beal family's home that evening for dinner and stories of summers spent at Makaha. After he was back home on the mainland, Sam received and email from Mr. Beal with a file of photos that his grandfather had taken of a big swell. He didn't open the file for two years, but when he did he quickly realized that the photos weren't from just any swell, they were from the historic "Swell of '69".

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Questing for Valhalla with Swedish surfer Freddie Meadows.

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A photo portfolio from Australian photographer, filmmaker, and Uluwatu pioneer Alby Falzon. Accompanied by a conversation with Andrew Kidman.
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The Surfer’s Journal
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