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Surf sessions, catastrophic earthquakes, and the difficulty of experiencing time and place in the immediacy of living.

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First Point: Sean Woolnough hits Namotu reef's Love Shacks on a super-glassy moderate swell.Spin the Globe: This issue, you've landed in the Seychelles Islands, "one of the most lightly surfed tropical island groups in the world.The Best I Ever Saw: Divine recalls James Jones as the best surfer he ever saw in 1971 with his backside bottom turns at Pipeline.Blank Expression: New shortboards aren't your standard shortboards anymore. The outline is different with wide, flat tail, new flex patterns, carbon fiber strips, and added volume. There are lots of new options and different types of space-age materials are being used to achieve high-performance boards.

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Thoughts on the nature of surf sonics.

Ep. 26
On winning world titles, motherhood, fandom, paying homage, traditional lines, Tom Curren, trying to fit in, and how one piece of clothing altered her life.

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Where our intrepid Mission Beach bottom-feeder and veteran Mex-hand returns for the umpteenth time to see the scene of his life’s passion play.
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The Surfer’s Journal
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