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Ep. 64
On riding big waves, diving with sharks, and growing up on the North Shore.
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A simple side-rip can become an odyssey.
Tracking the tumultuous dawn of the surf age on Bali.
“This is a place far off the beaten path, where I can disappear and return with my mind blown and the images to go with it.”
Soul surfing, from the Hawaiian kahunas to Ram Dass.