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Postcards from the Fringe
Three examples of surfing evolution. This section of the issue begins with the development of the leash, then shows how people took it to the next level with kitesurfing. Also, it addresses the construction of the standing wave. And finally, identifies the competitive growth in Paddleboard racing.
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Ep. 0
Stalling for Depth
Josh Mulcoy loves traveling to far-off places to surf—Hawaii, Bali, Alaska, South Africa, Scotland—but you will find him at the Santa Cruz Harbor jetty between November and February. Like his dad, “Harbor” Bill, Josh lives for his Santa Cruz water time.
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The Transformation of Tom Stone
Tom Pohaku Stone stared at a Hawaiian pro surfing career at an early age. Running into trouble time after time helped him separate from his ego and find the traditional Hawaiian culture that founded all things surfing. Including the study of it as well as it's traditional practices like papa nalu (boards) and papa holua (wooden sleds that ridden down hillsides). Ultimately this saved his life.
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The Brothers
Kimo Hollinger talks about surfing with Paul Gebauer on the North Shore of Hawaii in the late 1950s. The music of Richard Kauhi Quartet in Hawaii and the jazz scene, the comparison of blues music to the Hawaiian struggle. Adventures "knowing Miki Dora, Conrad Cauha and the funeral of Sandy Kahanamoku and surfing at Ala Moana Yacht Harbor" are told.
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The Road to Chinchilla
Yasha Hetzel brings us along on a surf trip to a remote and rugged area with surf to match. The tale is as much about the long arduous trip and the people they meet along the as the great surf they eventually find.
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The Surfer’s Journal
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