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Nihiwatu: What Becomes a Dream
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Granny and Doc
The unbreakable bond of friendship between John Heath "Doc" Ball and LeRoy Grannis saw the two of them through Southern California's surfing pre-history, World War II, and post-war assimilation to civilian life. Their glory days of membership in the Palos Verdes Surfing Club have since given way to commercialism-driven surf culture and group organization, but several photos help us understand the purity of their socio-surfing experience.
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Some Men are Mountains
Clyde Aikau’s no-bullshit takes on charging at 70, his family’s Waimea Bay lineage, and the joy of giving back.
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Pseudo Escondido
It’s a crude sport—packing tubes. Take one thumping beachbreak. Add a little performance-enhancing squirt from some modern machinery. The methods are as lawless as the thrill-seekers. Christian Beamish reports on the stretch of black sand in Mainland Mexico where it all goes down.
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Guerilla Tactics
Photographer Dan Russo—every bit as dangerous as the big wave freebooters he chronicles—is always down for a challenge. And while North Shore based, he is all too willing to plunge into ice-bath circumstances far from the Palm Latitudes. He recently found himself in Chile, on the prowl for rumored Virgin Size. He traveled with Nathan Fletcher and Kohl Christensen. In Hawaii, they’re known as chargers. In Australia, they’re known as Hell Men. Most of us just call them Bat Shit, and hope their premiums are paid up. See what they stumbled into—and down the faces of.
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Tooth and Claw: John Elwell Remembers Oahu 1958-’60
Rum pirate John Elwell remembers Oahu 1958-'60 from his sloop in the Sea of Cortez.
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