Episode 0
Log Jam 1922
After a catching up with fellow 70-somethings at San Onofre, Charles Ehlers takes us back to the earliest days of surfing along the Southern California Coast, with a timeline charting the growth in the popularity of the sport in California- from just a handful of surfers in 1922, to surfing colonies and surfing clubs up and down the coast by 1943.
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Ep. 0
Surfboards on Fire
When the notorious riot broke out at the 1986 OP Pro Surfing Championships, a renowned British fine-art photographer happened to be on hand with a single roll of film. He shot it. Then, he lost it for a quarter century. These are Nick Waplington’s Surf Riot images, along with some thoughts about what they might mean.
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Ep. 70
Derek Hynd
On going finless, modern performance surfing, and sharks.
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Ep. 69
Cheyne Horan
On performance surfing, going against the grain, and the world tour in the 1980s.
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Ep. 68
Kelia Moniz
On growing up at Waikiki, competition, traveling the world, and family.