Episode 0
Lightshow: Portfolio Dennis Junor
Photo Essay of California featuring some of the most memorable swells on record. Beautiful land and seascape pictorial up and down the West Coast.
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Ep. 0
Landfall
Dave Parmenter weaves the tale of a young Oahu lifeguard's introduction to humility via his participation in the Molokai Challenge paddle board race. Sentenced to participate in the race after a breach of discipline bred of Oahu summer boredom, lifeguard Willy Powers thrashes his way across the channel, inflating his self-regard. Any cockiness won in the race evaporates after a post-race conversation with his partner's grandfather, a WWII veteran.
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Gallery: Patrick Tobin
Lesley "Bird Man" Williams and Buzzy Trent stand in the doorway of the California gang's Makaha house during the winter of 1951.
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Ep. 0
You Crazy Diamonds
The line between rock star and surf star was significantly thinner in the 1960s and 70s, made even more so by common positioning in underground culture, subversive lifestyling, and psychedelia. For George Greenough and Pink Floyd, these crossover pools of interest ultimately ended in a creative collaboration, a film known as Echoes. Here’s the backstory of how Greenough’s disembodied portraits from deep inside the tube came to be paired with the band’s instrumentals.
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Ep. 58
Leah Dawson
On moving to Hawaii, languages of connection, style, cinematography, Pipeline, single-fins, simple surfing, and attaining longevity as a surfer.
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Ep. 0
Portfolio: Jack Belli
Writer (and occasional subject) Devon Howard on this issue’s featured photographer: “The unassuming appearance of this 23-year-old—average height, lean build, clean cut, a skateboarder’s sense of dress, framed by timelessly styled ophthalmic eyewear—may accentuate his surprisingly traditional work ethics, at least to those who don’t know him well. Beneath Jack’s polite and jovial nature is a motivated and creative doer. He’s no blue-faced kid living an uninvolved, self-important life through his phone. Jack is always out there, somewhere, lurking in the cut, making shit happen: Down the beach, up in the rocks, or just out of sight—sniping grade-A images.”
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The Surfer’s Journal
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