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Keep the Change
Are big-wave surfers pushing themselves into gigantic waves for the money or is peer pressure the motivator, or is it purely a personal quest? The big-wave community is asking themselves these questions and looking to fine-tune the safety equipment for surfers who pursue these types of waves. It definitely takes a certain breed to paddle in to one of these giants.
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Fringe Dweller
The pursuit of fame and fortune through surfing means is heavily discussed and (constructively) criticized in this sequence of interviews with Australian soul surfer Wayne Lynch. Jamie Brisick and Steve Pezman question the innovative tube rider on his thoughts regarding competitive surfing, Aboriginal cultures, shaping design, and much more.
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The Westward Tilt
A transplanted New Yorker’s love affair with California.
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The Half-Century Files: The King and I
Royalty, surf emissaries, and azure lineups in Tonga with Jeff Divine.
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Portfolio Bob Weeks
For Californian surfers—and, by extension, wave riders worldwide—the origin stories are all but memorized. Thanks to photographers like Don James, LeRoy Grannis, and Ron Stoner, our flashpoint moments are forever enshrined on Ilford photographic print paper. But in surfing’s “colonies,” such exhaustive archives are generally lacking. That’s what makes this issue’s Bob Weeks portfolio so fresh and appealing. A marvelous framer of compositions reminiscent of Ron Church, Weeks accumulated a file as deep as it is broad. The surfing looks fresh, the venues stoke-worthy, and the boards are worthy of study. This is a find by any measure.
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Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel
Mike Hynson, the ultra-clean looking robin-hood to Robert August's Batman in the Endless Summer, made a drastic left-hand turn in the late sixties. Eventually busted for running drugs, in this article and excerpt from his book, Hynson recounts his days from Bruce Brown's surf subject to film star to transcendental drug running to present day.
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