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A chapter out of Daniel Duane's book "Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast" questions the preconceived notions of work vs. play, and surfing's place in this dichotomous Western paradigm.

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A conversation between Paul Strauch Jr. and Steve Pezman. Paul, a successful competitive surfer in the late fifties and early sixties, talks with Steve about his life. They cover everything from his youth around the legendary beach boys at Waikiki to his current life as a part of the Hawaiian Surf Club at San Onofre. Through the conversation Paul talks about Tom Blake making surfboards in his family's yard, George Downing teaching him about big wave surfing, his experience with advancements in surfboard building, and finally about his move to the mainland and his desire to spread Aloha and Hawaiian culture.

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Mike Shine moved to New York City from Syracuse to pursue a career in advertising eventually ending up in San Francisco because his mind was on surfing. Mike proudly shows off his uniquely evolving "Shine Shack," which he reproduced in exacting detail for his first major show. Mike strives to keep his life in balance through his art, his accomplished advertising career, and surfing.

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On a wild road trip through the Americas, a pair of adventurous surfers cast their fate to the wind…and three wheels.
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An interview with Italo Ferreira.
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The Surfer’s Journal
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