Episode 0
As if the photo doesn't speak for itself, Gerry Lopez wrote an extended caption for a photo of him heading for safety on a wave too dangerous to mess around on.
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Ep. 0
Mortal liminality at the crest of a breaking wave.
Ep. 69
On performance surfing, going against the grain, and the world tour in the 1980s.
A Westside mission remains a perennial fieldtrip for Oahu surfers and visitors opting for an adventure when the North Shore gets maxed-out and the trade winds are whipping. Your guarantee to score out there is always, at best, speculative.
The land and water photography of Bondi local Bill ""Don't call me a Hero"" Morris reflects his ability to scope out any situation and thrive within the physical circumstances.