Episode 0
Giri and Ninjo: Japan’s Enduring Mystery
Katsu Kawaminami, a Japanese surfer in Guam hitchhikes a ride from Guam to Japan with Tor Johnson. Since Katsu introduced Johnson to Japanese surfing, he had a fascination with Japan and learned the Japanese language. He returned to Japan in search of surf that is fickle from typhoon swell, but rewarding when it arrives. Story covers Japanese surf and culture such as wave pools, surf shops, food and localism.
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Ep. 0
Surfboards on Fire
When the notorious riot broke out at the 1986 OP Pro Surfing Championships, a renowned British fine-art photographer happened to be on hand with a single roll of film. He shot it. Then, he lost it for a quarter century. These are Nick Waplington’s Surf Riot images, along with some thoughts about what they might mean.
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Ep. 70
Derek Hynd
On going finless, modern performance surfing, and sharks.
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Ep. 69
Cheyne Horan
On performance surfing, going against the grain, and the world tour in the 1980s.
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Ep. 68
Kelia Moniz
On growing up at Waikiki, competition, traveling the world, and family.