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Dana Brown discusses the notion of living the life of an adult surfer while reflecting on a lifetime of surfing memories.

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Typhoid, dengue fever, heartbreak, madness. Looking behind the scenes of Rob Machado's ill-fated 2009 biopic, "The Drifter."

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Nathan Lawrence has been treading the poverty line for more than a decade to capture the shots contained in this portfolio. From river waves and wave pools to perfection in West Oz and Indo, struggling to make ends meet never looked so enticing.

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Cape Cod is freighted with dreams, aspirations and history. A charismatic bit of geography, the hook-shaped peninsula is lauded by artists for its resonant “Cape light.” Comprising a multitude of townships, demographics, and swell exposures, it’s Massachusetts’ most complex wave field. Of course, there is a diehard surf populace willing to hang through the bitter cold of winter and the various indignities of tourist season to get their moments. This is the inside view.

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How San Diego nearly became a wasteland of “surf parks” during the 60s.
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The Surfer’s Journal
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