Episode 0
Carpe Diem
Tor Johnson relates the tale of finding a barreling right-hand wave on the island of Porto Santo, only to discover that the wave looked better from the rail of the boat than from the water. After a moment of euphoria, Johnson and his buddy Yoshi find the wave is too fast, a hopeless closeout. After getting worked repeatedly, they retreat. Johnson reflects on whether the moment of discovery was negated by the actuality, or whether the moment of discovery in itself is the point of the exercise.
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Ep. 0
Room For Two
This tale of mother and son is unique on a variety of levels. Janet MacPherson was not only one of the original hot gal surfers at Malibu (coming along just after Aggie Bain and her flock), she has maintained a healthy pilot light of stoke since those sepia-tinged days. A deeply experienced Bajera, Janet knows more nooks and crannies in Mexico than any dozen sunburned Pacifico-swillers. That’s how she raised here boy, Sean. Sure, he might own and operate the hippest hotels in Manhattan—including the Jane and the Maritime—but it’s comforting to learn that he has the ballast of surf experience keeping his roots moist.
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Rejects II
The supply of candidates keeps building as tens of thousands of discarded surf photos are ground into mulch by the incessant machinery of the monthly surf mag process. Into that impersonal and harsh mayhem of mashed egos and broken souls we periodically dip and retrieve a few, nominated by their takers for this second chance at immortality, and chosen by us for their uncoventional documentation of the culture and the act.
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Ep. 0
Reviews: Two Tomes and Some Vinyl
Taschen’s "Surfing," Adler’s "An Uncommon Archive," and Kidman’s "Litmus LP."
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