Episode 0
Carpe Diem
Tor Johnson relates the tale of finding a barreling right-hand wave on the island of Porto Santo, only to discover that the wave looked better from the rail of the boat than from the water. After a moment of euphoria, Johnson and his buddy Yoshi find the wave is too fast, a hopeless closeout. After getting worked repeatedly, they retreat. Johnson reflects on whether the moment of discovery was negated by the actuality, or whether the moment of discovery in itself is the point of the exercise.
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Larger Than Life
The photographic works of Dr. Don James documented wave riding and ocean exploration from the days of surfers catching 20-pound California spiny lobster in the 1930s to applying decades of learned surfing mastery to backside walls at Pipeline and Waimea in the 1980s. Craig Stecyk crafts us an eloquent introduction to James' contributions to surf culture.
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Costa Da Morte
Lethal slabs on Basque Spain's death coast.
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Ep. 0
A North Shore Diary
Chris Malloy describes the daily activities of the Malloy brothers Keith, Dan, and their "young-guns" surf buddies (Kelly Slater, Todd Chesser, Donny Soloman, Kalani Robb, etc.) during the month of November. Watermen all, they keep busy plying the traditional skills of diving, bodysurfing and wave chasing in all conditions that occur, including some heavy days at Pipe and Waimea.
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On The Edge Of A (Fever) Dream
George Greenough and multi-hull edge boards are at the center of Andrew Kidman and Ellis Ericson’s project to document the space-race around a singular design concept.
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Ep. 0
Beach Party
Willard Bascom, The War Department, and the Wildcat Origins of Modern Surf Science.
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