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California Christmas
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Tranquila La Plaza
For a hundred or so local surfers, day-tripping Sinaloa is—tentatively—back on the table.
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A Graceful and Perfumed Rage
Teenaged runaway. Performance pioneer. Lifetime surf obsessive. Lisa Andersen inhabits each role with trademark élan.
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The Legible Element
Mind surfing with lauded Victorian poet Gerard Manley Hopkins, who had some surprising intuitions about the “selves of waves.”
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Youth in Revolt
One of modern surfing's first groms, Bob Holland lives in the here and now, but you'd think he's a teenager. His daily workout and perspective keeps him young. He's been an active shortboarder since the mid-'60s, still travels halfway around the world to surf, and remains the only surfer to win U.S. titles on all three coasts; a true inspiration to the sport.
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Foam Ball Satori
“That's the key to the whole getting robbed thing, just give ‘em your stuff. Like when I got stabbed here, I had a hut right down on the beach and I was sleeping, and I wake up and there's a guy going out of my hut. So I get up out of bed and I look out, and it's pretty bright from the moon, and I can see the one guy's sitting there with some of my stuff. So I take off after him – like a dumb ass. Never do that. Whatever you have, it ain't worth getting killed over. But I was young . So I run after the guy and reach out and grab the back of his shirt and something just slams my shoulder. And I look down and there are all these flashlights in my face and I'm covered in blood. I look up and there's ten guys there…”
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