Episode 0
Barefoot Surfari
What initially seemed to be simply a covert trip to the Bixby Ranch for a couple of Gremmies turned out to signify their initiation into the exclusive group of Malibu surfers who regulated the social hierarchy in The Pit. This sequel to Denny Aaberg's "No Pants Mance" from the previous issue of The Surfer's Journal provides a unique pre-teen's perspective of the hostility of the Bixby Ranch's "Surfing Cowboys", and his experience in reconciling his passion for surfing alone with the social dynamic that he loves at home in Malibu.
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Ep. 0
Surfboards on Fire
When the notorious riot broke out at the 1986 OP Pro Surfing Championships, a renowned British fine-art photographer happened to be on hand with a single roll of film. He shot it. Then, he lost it for a quarter century. These are Nick Waplington’s Surf Riot images, along with some thoughts about what they might mean.
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Ep. 70
Derek Hynd
On going finless, modern performance surfing, and sharks.
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Ep. 69
Cheyne Horan
On performance surfing, going against the grain, and the world tour in the 1980s.
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Ep. 68
Kelia Moniz
On growing up at Waikiki, competition, traveling the world, and family.