“It’s like the Area 51 of the Pacific,” says Hawaii-based photographer Dane Grady. “A lot of crazy and weird stuff happens in the water. The sea is moody here—the waves can be elegant or down right vicious and contorted in the most brilliant of ways.” Photo: Dane Grady
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Area 51
“This is a place far off the beaten path, where I can disappear and return with my mind blown and the images to go with it.”
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Surfboards on Fire
When the notorious riot broke out at the 1986 OP Pro Surfing Championships, a renowned British fine-art photographer happened to be on hand with a single roll of film. He shot it. Then, he lost it for a quarter century. These are Nick Waplington’s Surf Riot images, along with some thoughts about what they might mean.
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Ep. 70
Derek Hynd
On going finless, modern performance surfing, and sharks.
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Ep. 69
Cheyne Horan
On performance surfing, going against the grain, and the world tour in the 1980s.
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Ep. 68
Kelia Moniz
On growing up at Waikiki, competition, traveling the world, and family.