Episode 0
Jim Kravets relates the story of his surfing initiation at Nias Island, Indonesia. High points: getting rolled on the reef by a monster wave; being stripped of his swim trunks; breaking his surfboard leash; almost drowning.
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Ep. 0
Almost getting away with full bellies and free gas in Hawaii.
Was it really better yesterday if no one was there to surf it?
In the late 1970s, a crew of California surf-skaters got wind of the Central Arizona Project, bringing the concept of a surf trip to the heart of the Sonoran Desert.
Whether world-renowned or mere beachside tourist attractions, these simple landings breed virulent surf cultures.