19.5
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Jay Nelson: No Facile Statements
Jay Nelson is a serious surfer and fine artist. He is featured in multiple publications and galleries around the world.…
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A Cook Islands Wiki
Tim Brimblecombe’s adventure to the South Pacific’s remote Cook Islands with its powerful reef passes and “land of the giant”…
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Shooting For My Life
Stuck in paradise surfing with Mikala Jones, Nathan Myers ponders the life of a freelance surf journalist.
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All to Myself
Things were a lot different when Billy Meng started surfing in 1943. He paid $10 for his first surfboard: a…
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Songs in the Key of Kai
Kai Lenny’s friends and family weigh in on his old-school philosophy, humility, and his love for big waves. He learned…
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At Home With:A California Quartet
A visit to four unique surfers’ homes: Jimmy Gamboa shares his unique Malibu home along with his favorite surf spots.…
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Satan Rides Alone
Stebbins entertains with his yarn when troubled Chuck-the-Truck shares the lineup with the Devil. Oh, yeah, and God too; he’s…
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Jelly Theory
Lance Slabbert meets up with a surf crew at Jakarta International Airport. While waiting for everyone to arrive, Slabbert ponders…
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William Finnegan
William Finnegan is a veteran staff writer for “The New Yorker” and author of four books. He reports on some…
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Square One
Lindsay Lord’s planing hull study in Hawaii during WWII marks an obscure pivotal moment in surf history. After discovering Lord’s…
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Writer at Work
In 1992 “Playing Doc’s Games” appeared in The New Yorker. A two-part, 39,000-word story in which journalist William Finnegan plunges…