Surfing Around
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In Their Path
Mid-ocean swells don’t cause water molecules to move until reaching the shallows. Instead, they are expressed as pulses of rotating,…
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An Activator of Creative Dreams
I first met Francis “Duke” Boyd in the summer of ’63 at Ole Surfboards in Seal Beach, where I worked…
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Dumpster Dive
One of the noticeable accouterments in the original Surfer magazine office was the presence of founder John Severson’s artwork on…
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Divine Colleague
I’ve spent 50-plus years publishing surf magazines with Jeff Divine. Aside from his undeniable talent behind the lens, what seemed…
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Tricks of the Trade
The information presented here is abbreviated, partial, and, most of all, just one man’s take. Excuses in advance to those…
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Monuments of Nonconformity
Listed in this treatise is a small but representative sample of the numerous indelibly colorful individuals who, to me, stand…
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Fool’s Gold
A sector of surfing now exists as an Olympic sport. Rather than being a mainstream honor, many of us believe…
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The Slender Man
Meet a lifelong slender man: the energized 94-year-old Mr. Dick Metz. His ex-girlfriend once complained that he rolled out of…
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Tuesday With Morey
It was an all-too-rare visit to Tom Morey in the fall of 2020. I’d invited new TSJ editorial employee Ben…
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Nobody Talks, Everybody Walks
The Barracks Crew, as we came to call ourselves while living on the North Shore in 1962, lived on the…
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Pat Curren Requiem
On January 20, 2023, 90-year-old Pat Curren passed away while camped in the San Diego area. Pat was a major…
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A Quiet Moment’s Echo
The two leading surf magazines from the 1960s through the 2000s were Surfer and Surfing. Surfer, being the original and…