Regrets Only
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Pile Driver
The Blears family lived in a big apartment just off the Ala Wai Canal in Waikiki. I was the same…
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Breakneck
In 1988, I painted one of those old, really big Pro-Tec helmets black with the Suicidal Tendencies logo on the…
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Clown Show Cracks
I did a trip to Senegal in the mid 2000s, set up through Surfer magazine, with Brett Simpson, John Robertson,…
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Head Banger
It was 2008 at Teahupo’o. I surfed all morning and into the afternoon. The waves were just flawless. At one…