Undercurrents
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Farming for Fuel
Growing up as neighbors in Hana, Hawaii, Monyca and Ola Eleogram spent their formative years like most Maui kids, roaming…
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Vantage Point
The longer you surf, the more ingrained it becomes in your basic human nature. At 79 years old, I have…
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Hunting the World’s Northernmost Surfer
My clock said 9 a.m., but it was pitch black outside. I called the front desk of the hotel. “Is…
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Playing the Same Game
Though the early origins of wave riding are most frequently thought of as Polynesian, or perhaps spawned in Peru, evidence…
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No Lollipops
The story goes that Tommy Peterson—brother of late Australian champion Michael Peterson—shaped the first Fireball Fish for South African virtuoso…
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One More Wave
One night in September 2009, Lieutenant Commander Dan Cnossen was leading Navy SEAL Team 1 on a mission in southern…
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Cutting Class
Surfing, being a daylight activity, and quality waves, being acts of nature that come and go, often creates a conflict…
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Going Above Ground
“This year, Gabriel Medina is going to work with his body differently for each event,” says the two-time champion’s longtime…
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Clown Show Cracks
I did a trip to Senegal in the mid 2000s, set up through Surfer magazine, with Brett Simpson, John Robertson,…
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The Collected Cooper
Bob Cooper was an eccentric among California surfers in the 1950s, an oddball tribe itself back then. He was a…
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Pase Usted
At twilight we are hobbling around the palm plantation. A surreal, man-made jungle. Half lost in lanes of fronds and…
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In Harm’s Way
There’s Elissa Steamer, icon of skateboarding, sitting on a patch of sidewalk. Knees to her chest. Back against the wall.…