Undercurrents
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A Handmade’s Tale
As generations of wave riders continue passing through time and space, the shaping of surfboards is becoming increasingly automated, thus…
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Drift Driving
So I feel much differentSo confusedSo I feel refracted…Split in twenty-twoSo I’m really here nowIn a place and time,Though I…
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The Whole Gestalt
World-class surfer, journalist, sociologist, and frontline reporter Dr. Marty Sugarman died in September 2021 at the age of 74. “The…
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The Carpool
Back when we’d take trips up and down the coast in the early 1960s, the idea was that the more…
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Sharp Breakers
1918 was a great summer of surfing for George Freeth. After nearly a dozen years of giving exhibitions in California,…
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Quadratic Formulas
Single-fin: Tom Blake. Twin-fin: Mark Richards. Thruster: Simon Anderson. Quad: Glen Winton. Wait, are you sure? What about Ricardo Bocão?…
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In Full Flow
Tom Morey, the most important futuristic thinker to apply his brilliance to the sport of surfing, passed away two days…
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Sessions Measured in Millimeters
“Getting in at Parking Lot. Be home soon.” Sending that text to my wife is crucial to ensure my future…
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Bull Droppings
I’m not sure where my passport is. I’ve lost my kids’ birth certificates many times. I’m clueless where either of…
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Real Recognizes Real
In 1983, I was on an early boat trip in Indonesia with Walter and Flippy Hoffman, Pua Rochlen, Dick Beachum,…
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Florida Man Finds Paradise
Al Layer greets me at the Maui Country Club wearing wraparound sunglasses and grinning through a gray Bob Weir–esque beard.…
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All in My Head
The beach antics lately have been rife with style moves—bocce ballers, storytellers, volleyball hitters. The motor vehicles they arrive in…