Undercurrents
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A Quiet Moment’s Echo
The two leading surf magazines from the 1960s through the 2000s were Surfer and Surfing. Surfer, being the original and…
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Tip of the Arrow
Odd Grimm Persson might be a strange-sounding name in English, but in his native Swedish it means “the tip of…
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The Pantheon
PHIL EDWARDS: Not for power, which he had at his beck and call, but for intuitive rides. Phil’s precise edge…
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One Winter Horror Story
My secretary buzzed me to say that someone claiming to be Stanley Kubrick was on the line. I suspected it…
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No Wall Hangers
The Summer of ’66 Project got its start in the summer of 1965. That’s when Tom Morey announced his noseriding…
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The Lopez Factor
In today’s world, millions pursue riding waves. To those who can understand it as such, the act has come to…
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High Sheen
When Clark Foam closed in December 2005, glasser Horacio De Seixas found himself in the same position as many who…
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Goosebumps
“Renny Yater: Turning 90 and still shaping.” I recently received an email with that line in the subject and an…
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Proof of Life
It’s already hot at 8 a.m. in Mogadishu when I open the heavy, bulletproof door to the armored Land Cruiser…
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Whomping for Gold
For decades, bodysurfing contests have felt more like arcane rituals than high-stakes competitions. Most are local affairs—equal parts family reunion,…
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The Road Warriors
One thing about being a surfer who lived in Huntington Beach in the early 1960s was that new swells often…
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Turaco in the Drylands
He was camped next to us at a remote Mexican pointbreak. One afternoon, I noticed his legs sticking out from…