Undercurrents
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Lifestyle, Culture, Zeitgeist
Red-bearded young American, very well groomed, trunk of a small, arcane sedan: It’s a bold cover image for a surf…
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Have a Cigar
In most places, surfboard origin stories seem carefully curated and aligned in reverence. In Australia, for example, the board that…
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Tuesday With Morey
It was an all-too-rare visit to Tom Morey in the fall of 2020. I’d invited new TSJ editorial employee Ben…
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Knight Mission
In his 1889 transatlantic journal, The Cruise of the Alerte, Edward Frederick Knight writes of treasure waiting to be found…
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Unmediated Connections
Born and raised on the tree-laden coastline of Inverness, California, Daisy Sheff has been making art for as long as…
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Pile Driver
The Blears family lived in a big apartment just off the Ala Wai Canal in Waikiki. I was the same…
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Nobody Talks, Everybody Walks
The Barracks Crew, as we came to call ourselves while living on the North Shore in 1962, lived on the…
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Light Waves
Each morning when he lived as an expat in Berlin, artist Sean O’Brien sat down at his kitchen counter and…
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Teenage Wasteland
Mike Chipko had his front teeth knocked out in a drunken bar fight of which he had little recollection. He…
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Pat Curren Requiem
On January 20, 2023, 90-year-old Pat Curren passed away while camped in the San Diego area. Pat was a major…
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It Reef
A successful and principled clothing mogul told me about the wave. We were yakking about travel, wolfing sashimi, and drinking…
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Son of the Emerald Isle
As a 9-year-old with wool gloves duct taped to baggy wetsuit sleeves, Richie Fitzgerald was introduced to the cold craic…