Undercurrents
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Undersold, Experiential
While on a recent series of deployments for Visit Baja California Sur—the state ministry of tourism—the team I was working…
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Tricks of the Trade
The information presented here is abbreviated, partial, and, most of all, just one man’s take. Excuses in advance to those…
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Bright Crafts in Dark City
“I started going to Asbury Park in ’98,” says Phil Browne, the co-founder of Glide Surf Co. “I was 17,…
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Sunset, That’s It
I haven’t missed a North Shore winter since I came here in 1958, and I’ve become very narrow-minded. I surf…
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Monuments of Nonconformity
Listed in this treatise is a small but representative sample of the numerous indelibly colorful individuals who, to me, stand…
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Finding and Sharing Stoke’s Universality
“What makes you stoked?” Filmmaker Darieus “Dar” Legg wants to know. He’s sitting on the stage at Encinitas’ La Paloma…
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Fool’s Gold
A sector of surfing now exists as an Olympic sport. Rather than being a mainstream honor, many of us believe…
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My Destiny
Regarding the art of the slab, Victor Hugo liked it thicc. It’s unlikely that the renowned author was even remotely…
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Proof of Concept
Harry Bryant sits on a barstool in the Driftwood Spars, a 400-year-old pub in Saint Agnes, Cornwall, England. He’s halfway through…
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Digging at the Roots
Surfer and filmmaker David Mesfin’s journey started in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, where he was born into turmoil in 1973. The…
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The Slender Man
Meet a lifelong slender man: the energized 94-year-old Mr. Dick Metz. His ex-girlfriend once complained that he rolled out of…
