Ep.50
Carissa Moore
On staying true to herself, the nuances of expectation, positivity, taking a break from the tour, the realities of pro surfing, athleticism, and her upbringing in Waikiki.
Hosted by Jamie Brisick, offering in-depth conversations with the most compelling people in surfing.
Ep.50
On staying true to herself, the nuances of expectation, positivity, taking a break from the tour, the realities of pro surfing, athleticism, and her upbringing in Waikiki.
Ep.49
On Pipeline, his first winter as a North Shore lifeguard, bodysurfing mechanics, bravery, wipeouts, waves of consequence, and his heaviest experiences in the line of duty.
Ep.48
On Barbarian Days, long-form writing, conflict reporting, traveling, nonfiction narrative, surfing Long Island, and finding an audience.
Ep.47
On pursuing his dreams, Todd Chesser and Brock Little, a brush with fate at Himalayas, training, and how to get in position at Jaws.
Ep.46
On self-embodiment, taxidermy, her band, dealing with tough crowds, the Rage gang, the surfers and artists who inspire her, airs, and finding liberation in being an outsider.
Ep.45
On his Central California roots, eschewing competition, filming, pathways to success, shark encounters, family, making art, and creating opportunity.
Ep.44
On MacGillivray Freeman Films, learning through trial and error, storytelling, water cinematography, Mark Occhilupo, resisting repetition, and the power of the soundtrack.
Ep.43
On growing up in Santa Cruz, his nickname, channeling fear and adrenaline, his worst wipeout, addiction and asking for help, and Maverick’s.
Ep.42
On the parallels between surfing and musical composition, collaborating with her heroes, authenticity, self-expression, the power of simplicity, piano, the value of improvisation, and taking a year off to chase surf.
Ep.41
On the evolution of surfboard design, market domination, perfecting polyurethane, government regulation, and Blank Monday and the end of Clark Foam.
Ep.40
On the power of science, his journey through higher education, Kaiser Bowls, environmental activism, navigating social hierarchies in Hawaii, and traditional surf craft.
Ep.39
On surf devotion, sidewalk intimacy, knee paddling, off-the-lip skating, checkerboard patterns, the theatrics of style, punk music, Dogtown, and fatherhood.
Ep.38
On surfing against her brother in a heat, the world tour, her twin-fin fascination, creativity, her surfboard label, and getting waves at Backdoor.
Ep.37
On Byron Bay, “Magic Sam” and the shortboard revolution, surfing’s commercialization, crowds, and paying homage to surf history.
Ep.36
On measuring success, photography, letting go, confidence, approaching challenges with a positive mindset, the balance between performance and playfulness, and his mother’s influence.
Ep.35
On the wave that made her, fighting for female representation, the Irons brothers, being invited to the Eddie, the dichotomy between freedom and conservatism, and the surf industry’s failures.
Ep.34
On wanting to be somebody, lessons learned from his father, pouring himself into his pursuits, his be-the-best mentality, the power of visualization, and Wave Ki.
Ep.33
On filmmaking, skating, persisting through failure, transparency as an artist, what draws him to his subjects, anti-consumerism, self-expression, and finding freedom in detachment.
Ep.32
On riding switch, finding his way to Pipeline, the recipe for a perfect trip, Waimea’s mechanics, clean living, the virtue of humility, and enlisting in the Army.
Ep.31
On being held hostage by Somali pirates, the power of optimism, his first phone call, sanity and remembrance, anger, and forgiveness.