Interview
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Know When to Jump
What Neal Cassady was to the Beat movement and the counterculture, Billy Meng was to California’s proto–surf lifestyle and waterman…
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In Search of Lost Time
In the hot Queensland summer of 2021, Gary Elkerton, a three-time runner-up to the world title, two of ’em amid…
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Mrs. Pipeline
At the end of a trail off Ke Nui Road—between the old Volcom house and the old Gerry house—a particularly…
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Seeking the Surface
Big-wave bodysurfer Kalani Lattanzi is commonly mistaken for a sea creature. That’s the first impression many observers have when they…
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Some Men are Mountains
Clyde Aikau ushers me through the gates of a family property that sits off the back roads in the sleepy…
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The Dreamer
The first time I met Wayne Lynch, we’d each been driving around all morning looking for waves in northern New…
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Portals to the Sea
Paul Banks dreams in waves. It’s always been this way. He’s attuned to them, knows they’re all around us. He…
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Until The Wheels Fall Off
Timmy Reyes’ first act in surfing followed a fairly traditional track, at least among those who are blessed to make…
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Between Takes
Years before I met filmmaker Stephen Gaghan, I saw Traffic, his multi-narrative film about the illegal drug trade directed by…
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Still Rolling
During the early 1990s, there was a modern-day version of the O.K. Corral in West Los Angeles. Although the Earps…
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I Wanna Be Your Dog
“A dog by nickname, a dog by nature,” wrote Derek Hynd in his 1991 Surfer magazine ASP Top 44 appraisal…
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Full Nurture
When was the last time Kelly Slater dropped by your house to enjoy a cup of tea and a chat…