Interview
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The Swell Czar
Embarking on a surf trip can be emotionally taxing. Even after months of planning, careful quiver consideration, and an obscene…
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Utility Infielder
Jay Caspian Kang initially declined this interview. Anyone familiar with the 44-year-old’s oeuvre might be surprised by his reluctance to…
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Hard and Fast all the Time
You can’t keep a good man down, or so the saying goes, and for almost half a century Ross Clarke-Jones…
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Not Friends
Later-in-life surfers usually have pretty modest expectations about their newfound interest in wave riding. They hope for some communion with…
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By the Horns
The first time I ever saw Joey Cabell—arguably one of the most accomplished competitive surfers of the 1960s—was in a…
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Ripples of Distortion
In 2008, Andrew VanWyngarden had the strange experience of becoming famous for music that made fun of becoming famous. As…
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Country Club Hours
In recent years, fueled by social media and vlogs, Newport Beach’s Wedge has had something of a relaunch into stand-up…
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Run a Knife
The only child of two surfing expats from Palos Verdes, California, born and raised in Yallingup, a small town on…
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A Fed Bear is a Dead Bear
I’m on the bow of the Nite Bite, a 22-foot center-console aluminum, helping Raph Bruhwiler navigate between rocks, into a…
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How to Reduce Your Shark Risk to Zero
Funny thing about white sharks: They are the most-studied shark species on the planet (based on the number of scientific…
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The Past is Not My Future
In 1993, Layne Beachley claimed her first world tour win. It stirred something in her that didn’t resolve itself until…
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The Art of Resistance
At a beach bar in France, Damien Castera raises a cold, frosted glass of continental lager and points to a…