Feature
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Get Clip
It’s a scene that might have been airbrushed onto the side of a 1977 Econoline van, had the boat trip…
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Sea Memory
As a child in the 1940s, Mary Heilmann accompanied her father to Kelly’s Cove in San Francisco where he soloed…
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The African Coin Flip
If you place your fingertip on the map of southern Africa and draw a line from Skeleton Bay straight across…
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Call Me At The Crack Of Noon
There is an iconic image from the 1970s of a dusky woman in a swimsuit taking photos from a beach…
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War and Waves
Deep into the cave with combat photojournalist Nic Bothma.
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In The Days Before…Surf Music
Jazz leader Bud Shank and the scoring of early surf cinema. From TSJ Volume 9.1.
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The Big Boogie
Part of the wave-riders’ essential equipment were Wellingtons, rubber waders they wore to cross fields so soggy that the mud…
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Expat Days
Peter Green flew to Australia via Fiji and New Zealand in 1972. The Californian surfer/photographer was searching for open pastures…
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War and Waves
It’s hard to focus on anything else when there’s a live grenade jiggling up and down in the pocket of…
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The Caretaker of Intangible Ingredients
One of surfing’s oldest clichés (“It’s not the board, it’s the rider”) falls short in the case of Skip Frye,…
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The Dazzling Blackness
I’m thinking about Brazilian president Getúlio Vargas, who shot himself in the heart in 1954; I’m thinking about Pepê Lopes,…
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Pack and Saddle
The volcano stood silently in front of us, capped in white and riddled with lava rock. A semi-frozen flurry began…