Feature
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The Colossus in the Garden
Impossible angles abound on this island in the mid Atlantic, topography confounding to eye and mind. A volcano reaches some…
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Legends of the Sandbar
Fall comes, and something shifts. The breeze picks up, the temperature drops, barometers plummet. The sky takes on dark chiaroscuro…
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Soundings: Acute Angles
In the same way that all squares are rectangles, but not all rectangles are squares, all surfboards with two fins…
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David Nuuhiwa by Leo Hetzel
David came from the Islands as a teenager and surfed around Huntington. There were a lot of really good surfers…
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Orpheus Rising
Conversational excerpts selected from “The Life and Work of Richard Brewer.”
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A Mechanized and Shimmering Vision
In a tepid, fabricated lagoon in Texas, one surfer grapples with the artificiality of the artificial surf experience.
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Reinvention × Restoration
When you are young, talented, and in the pocket of the wave that’s about to propel your modest-board short company…
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Pleasure Units
In late 2015, I awoke from a self-imposed several-year nap into a new reality. In this new reality, several things…
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Rumblin’
It’s a hot afternoon in San Juan Capistrano and there’s a south swell running when Brian Bent pulls his ’56…
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Next Year, Tel Aviv!
One year ago, a new El-Al 777, its tailfin Star of David the most coveted missile target in the world,…
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The Panic Response
Loving your home break is a different kind of love. They say love is patient, love is kind, it does…
