Feature
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Lines of Connection
In his debut graphic novel, titled In Waves, surfer and illustrator AJ Dungo explores the beauty and complexity of his…
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Soundings: Sanders
“The best shapers in the world are sanders.” I can’t recall who said that. Tom Eberly, maybe. It definitely wasn’t…
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Two Hands Clapping
I’ve wanted to surf this place for years. All I knew about it was that the landscape is unlike anything…
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Rain Dogs
Day One11:54 a.m. Nothing smells quite like the Pacific Northwest in the fall. Leaves are changing color and will soon…
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The Warmest Sands of Wishing
Where is the sea high and the winds softAnd moist and warm, sometimes stainedWith sun, with peace so wild for…
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Good Wood
Perhaps it’s the uniformity—the straightness—that feels most atrocious. Thousands of tree trunks are lined up in front of me in…
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Shut Up and Paint
“In order to paint, one has to go by the way one does not know. Art is like turning a…
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F*ck Your Hang-Ups
I should’ve known we’d end up at a trampoline park in Wailuku. While 28-year-old Kai Lenny may be considered the…
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Two in a Tuk Tuk
Throughout my 40-plus years of international surf travel and exploration, I’ve encountered plenty of eccentric, “road less traveled” devotees on…
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Every Sandbar Tells a Story
It was August of 1970, and I was 9 years old. My dad was working as a computer programmer for…
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The Compound
The road to Johnson Valley passes through several small towns as it disappears toward the Mojave, which get smaller and…
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Loitering With Intent
In the small rural town where I live, the coast is rugged and indented with little headlands and coves, river…